Saturday, April 25, 2015

April 25th, 2015

One of the things that was keeping me busy lately, and preventing quality time writing in this space while watching MLB games, was my involvement running the Hot Dog booth at the TAS Spring Fair last weekend.  I am always up to help, but they had a late scratch and asked me to staff/organize/etc.  My biggest bitch with this thing is that they run the hot dog booth twice a year (at Food Fair in October and the Spring Fair), but when I said, "sure, will do it" and asked for the play book/cheat sheet on where to get the product/borrow the grills/etc., no one has a clue.  Had to piece the history of it together anecdotally via oral tradition like a Cherokee.

It went well, we sold all 1000 hot dogs, generously donated by Costco, and had a net profit of NT$76,320 (about US$2,500).  Had a bunch of great helpers, including some yeoman work by the family, and while it was a long day for me 7a-4p, most of it spent in front of the hot grill, it was a lot of fun.  Hate it how the camera adds 40 pounds.
Another something I don't recall sharing due to this site malfunctioning in December was that I got to be Santa at the Winter Carnival.  Have never had the opportunity to do that before and the two hour shift went really fast cause it was really enjoyable.  Most (OK, all) of the moms were reluctant to take up my offer for them to sit on my lap. 


Alrighty...it is now time to share my list of the 10 Thing Taiwan Does Better Than Anyone Else.  Without further ado...

10 - Geometrically Groomed PetsCheck out this link.  This is really a thing.  I pass by this shop that has a huge sign out front with poodles hair groomed to be perfect spheres.  I have not seen the cube shaped mutts around town like they have in the pictures, but will not be surprised when I do.  In our travels, have seen a ton of dogs wearing footwear and clothing, dogs with sunglasses (in Japan) and even one with a fur coat (in Italy), but it seems so right that this has naturally extended to humiliating your pets in Taiwan.  Would have thought this would be more of a Japanese trend and am happy to see the Taiwanese leading the way.

9 - Swim Cap Sales.  As the only country on the planet that requires all bathers in public pools to wear them, Taiwan leads the world in the sale of swim caps per capita.  Data on this was hard to find, but there you have it.  When you are in a pool anywhere on the planet and you see an Asian person wearing one, you immediately know where they are from.

8 - Maximizing Costco Membership.  One membership goes a long way in Taiwan.  To be fair, Costcos are only in the US, Canada, Spain, UK, Korea, Japan, Australia and Taiwan, so it is unknown whether other cultures would out pace them if given the opportunity, and data on this is impossible to verify empirically, but based on anecdotal observations, it is estimated that at least 4 families use one membership card.  You can see this manifesting itself in the parking lots while groups of Taiwanese women divvy up their packages of toilet paper like a Clan of Hyenas (Cloud of Grasshoppers/Venue of Vultures?).  The most obvious example is the group that gets in line at the cashier and has multiple transactions.  No kidding that you see it every time, but my personal record was 1 cart and 8 different receipts.  Couldn't have been more that 20 items in that thing to start.  As an added bonus, they extend the value of the membership by loading up on the free napkins and chopped onions at the Hot Dog counter.

7 - 7-11 Density.  When we were in Thailand, a guide was proud to announce that Thailand now has more 7-11's than Taiwan.  He knew that off the top of his head as it was big news there recently. At 198,000 square miles and with a population of 67 million, it dwarfs Taiwan's 14,000 square miles and 23 million people.  However, there is one 7-11 per 11,000 Thai people, but one per 5,000 Taiwanese.  Suck it Thailand. 

6 - Leaving this one open.  There are some things that I like from the CNN list of 10 things Taiwan does better than anyone else, like free Wifi and Themed restaurants, that I though about pilfering, but this is a list that should be left open ended for future accomplishments.

5 - Taxi Cabs.  Like anywhere, the cabbies here are dicks and will break every law and rule of polite social behavior in getting where they are going/angling to get a fare.  This morning, stopped at a red light and turning right, a taxi turned from the left lane in front of me, against our red light, cutting off pedestrians that did have the walk signal, all to get into the taxi cab line in front of the mall.  In Taiwan, they combine the three pillars of what you want in taxi culture.  First, they are everywhere all the time.  If you live in the mountains, you may have to call them to come up, but otherwise, you never have to wait more than a couple of minutes to flag one down.  They are cheap...from the other side of town on a Saturday night, it's like 10 bucks.  You never have to consider getting behind the wheel if booze is in the equation.  Third, they are typically very clean.  There are exceptions, like the guy we see every morning who lives out of his cab, and cleans his junk with a paper towel in the road in front of Betty's office, but those are few and far between.



4 - Road Repair Speed.  Having been raised to drive in environmental impact obsessed, 1 guy works while 4 guys watch areas like Los Angeles in Seattle, have grown used to a simple project snarling rush hour traffic for weeks.  Here, when they tar a street or repair a sidewalk, it's done same day.  Sometimes, will drive by a street that is closed for repaving, and when we come back an hour later, they are done and gone.  There are no potholes and the streets are well marked and maintained.  They do have a problem where different government agencies aren't on the same planning schedule, so there will be occasions when one group will be putting in a new curb, then another comes by a month later and rip it up to install electrical cables, but that feels like a minor inconvenience.

3 - Racoon Faces.  I realize that I am an enigma when it comes to rage, most of the time, hovering between mellowness and brain dead, but get absolutely apoplectic when people break the rules of social etiquette.  Referring back to the Cherokee from above, I read an inspirational quote the other day attributed to them that seems apropos at this point. 

'An old Cherokee is teaching his grandson about life. “A fight is going on inside me,” he said to the boy.
“It is a terrible fight and it is between two wolves. One is evil – he is anger, envy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, self-pity, guilt, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, superiority, and ego.” He continued, “The other is good – he is joy, peace, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, benevolence, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion, and faith. The same fight is going on inside you – and inside every other person, too.”
The grandson thought about it for a minute and then asked his grandfather, “Which wolf will win?”
The old Cherokee simply replied, “The one you feed'

Pretty violent imagery for a child, but still.  While these bouts of anger are strong, they fortunately subside quickly.  However, I will lash out at this perceived stupidity or at someone being simply an asshole, with a look of disgust, a burst of "what the hell are you doing" or laying on the horn.  My go to term in Chinese that I use to yell at people is Da lou lai de (you come from the mainland).  In most cultures, you will either get a wave of the hand "my bad" gesture, the finger, or in most parts of the United States, a hail of bullets.  In Taiwan, there is only one reaction...raccoon face.  To be more specific, the face a raccoon makes when you catch him in the middle of the night rummaging through your garbage cans and flashing a light in his face.  No reaction, doesn't run away, just sits there staring at you blankly.  And you don't dare go after him, cause he is likely to be rabid.  It is exactly like that.  This isn't just limited to individuals but can be seen in governmental policy.  Am lumping the mainland in here at this point.  In the aftermath of the horrific typhoon Haiyan that struck the Philippines in 2013, while countries around the world were sending relief workers and aid in the billions, China (a direct neighbor, which was in the middle of a tense standoff over disputed waters/islands and could have used some good PR), sent a grand total of $100,000 dollars.  That was the poitical equivalent of the raccoon face.  It is completely aggravating when someone just does not react to crisis, but it is also wildly effective.  You never have to do anything you don't want to do, rarely get into an actual altercation and people/countries just look at you in fear you could have rabies.  I felt that way this morning while listening to the CNN report that China has told the US that North Korea has 20 nuclear bombs and will have 40 by the end of 2016.  There was no follow up like, let's get together to do something about it, just simply, stare at the problem like so.


2 - Personal Safety.  It is probably not smart to be complacent on this, but Taiwan feels safer than anywhere else I have been.  Not talking about from weather or earthquakes, but from violent crime.  Have never been anywhere at any time of day where I feel threatened or have seen anything bad (like street brawls) going down.  If I remember that I left my car unlocked with stuff in it, I don't worry and rush back to lock it.  I don't have abject fear about the kids walking home alone, even at night.  I demand that they let me know that they arrive home safely, cause the drivers are total buttholes and accidents can happen, but not the fear of being accosted or abducted is non-existent.  Have been reading about the family in the States that lets their kids walk to the park alone, and the cops taking the kids into custody due to child endangerment.  That would never happen here for good reason.  It is counter intuitive because the cops are incredibly hands off, but they achieve this level of compliance by having CCTV's everywhere.  Everyone has a story, or a friend with one, about how this works.  I think I have related this before, but a friend lost a cherished earring in a cab.  She went to the local police station and after 3 hours in front of the banks of cameras, was able to discern the cab number from the footage, contacted that company and got her earring back that day.  You pull some kind of stunt in Taipei, and it'll be caught on camera and soon enough, you will be too. 

1 - 180 Degree World View.  The Chinese are expert at seeing what is in front of them.  Sorry for another road analogy, but with the amount of freaking bizarre choices the drivers make here, you would think that there would be an accident every other block.  Turning right from the far left lane across 3 lanes of traffic is not only common, it is expected.  This happens in every other form you could imagine. 

Side note, I almost added that the Taiwanese are the best at being unable to eat their own mistakes.  Rarely does a week go by where I don't relate to the kids that if they make a mistake, no excuses, learn from it, apologize, and don't make it worse by continuing along the wrong path in hopes it will be all right, just eat it.  Hey Taiwan, if you get in the left turn lane and realize that you should be going right, suck it up, make the left and circle back.  Don't freaking pull all the way across the gawdamn intersection with your best raccoon face on, stopping everyone else while you inch across to get where you are going. 

The fact that no one T-bones these tools is testimony enough that they see what is going on in front of them.  It is a very effective way to go through life, but you are missing out on half of what the world has to offer.

I know I've mentioned this before, but at annual Nordstrom United Way meetings, they would show an inspirational video.  One had a piece about a personal shopper and he was talking about how he wanted to give his customer a full 360 degree experience.  Being a desk jockey and not having a lot of customer interaction, but still believing in "The Nordstrom Way", I declared that I would forever after do my job giving complete 360 degree service.  This is a life philosophy that I embrace and try to live at all times.  Am not perfect...far from it...but if it is constantly on your mind, you will do the little things that not only make your life better, but those around you too.  And it is the little things that matter.  Follow up timely on an email (without blindly replying to all), plan ahead using your previous experience, be on time, etc.  When you are walking through a door, feel that there are people behind you and hold the door for them.  If you are driving, before you change lanes, check the mirrors, use your indicators and move over smoothly (another life philosophy, going through life as if you were a large boat dovetails nicely with this 360 view).

The Chinese/Taiwanese do not do this.  When they learn to drive a car, they are told to ignore their rearview mirrors (I will have to detail their convoluted driving school processes another day, it'll explain a lot) and focus on what is in front of you.  Not a day goes by where I will see people rush to get to an intersection or doorway, and stop cold while they figure out what the hell they are doing, with total lack of awareness that there is half the planet behind them.   The next local that goes through a door in front of me, turns and holds it open will be the first one.  I could (and sometimes do) go on forever with these types of anecdotes, and I know that people will space out anywhere, but it is simply the way things are done and no one seems to mind it (other than me in a big way)   It is this simple disregard for the "other" 180 degrees that, unless it is changed down to the molecular level of their DNA, will forever hold the culture back.






Tuesday, April 21, 2015

April 21st, 2015

Quick follow-up on the last dispatch.  After the 6.3, which Yahoo reported was 6.8, but felt like a 6.5 to me, we had 4 more meaty aftershocks measuring between 5.0 and 5.8. 

Giddy up.

Have a lot of pent up hostility and maybe getting it out will be cathartic.  I've mentioned often that I do this diary now mainly for me, then for the kids to look at in the future, but it really started as a way to keep in touch with friends and family to let them know what is going on with us and hopefully, for them to share stuff about what is going on with them.  Sure, I will hear good things, like their kids college acceptances, but with a few exceptions, people just don't share the darker side of the ledger in writing.  They spill their guts when we see them in the summer, which is nice, and I understand the reluctance as things that are perceived as being a negative are easily misunderstood when you don't have the inflection of the spoken word.  For better or worse, I obviously do not share this compunction.

In the last few weeks, I have learned that people I would have never suspected have gotten a hold of this link and are reading it on occasion.  I had a moment of self doubt about if I was sharing too much...being too harsh, but have to let that go cause it just wouldn't be honest or enjoyable to do.  Let's see how it goes but will say, if you have any sacred cows, I will be mentioning/bludgeoning them eventually.  So either stop reading now or, let's enjoy this steak together. 

Have often described the architecture around town as being Modern Bomb Shelter.   Totally understand that they had to build this place from scratch in a hurry under the threat of an extended bombing campaign, but it is just so depressing looking.  Grey, with black mold lining the walls from the wet humid climate.  Go anywhere in town and it all looks the same.  I like the fact that they built these places to withstand a lot of explosives, especially on earthquake swarm days like yesterday.  Recently, have seen a lot of construction in the neighborhood where they are tearing down some trash heaps and building a more contemporary (visually appealing) structure.  Gonna be hard to rip down some of these old apartment buildings where people own the units, but feel that in about 40 years or so, this place might not be a complete eyesore.  I won't be around to see it, but good on ya Taiwan and keep up the good work.

Spring time here consists of this yin and yang between nasty humid hot days, and rainy humid not quite so hot days.  We did have a day last week that was the best I've felt in 2 3/4 years.  Low 80's, a little breeze pushing around the humidity, and blue blue skies.  It was such a delight.  While it is nice to have the rain to keep the temps down, keep the windows open and the AC off, it is primo weather for mosquito breeding.  Our plug-in bug zapper goes off metronomically and Carolyn comes to the breakfast table detailing the amount and location of the bug bites she has received in the last 24 hours (it was 8 from head to ankle this morning).  I am constantly on the hunt to kill them and am on a personal best streak.  Today was the third day in a row that I killed one with a full belly of blood.
So satisfying.

Paul got to travel with the school baseball team (sorry, softball team) to Jakarta for 5 days to compete in the annual IASAS tournament.  I had to look it up...IASAS stands for Interscholastic Association of Southeast Asian Schools.  It consists of the American schools in Singapore, Jakarta, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, Taipei and Bangkok.  They compete in sports and have gatherings for things like art and public speaking.  Singapore is the biggest school and typically dominates most of the competition, so everyone hates them.  Some parents travel to cheer on the team, and I wanted to go cause I have never seen Jakarta, but it wasn't cheap, Betty was on the road, and everyone says that not only is there nothing to see in Jakarta, but the school is way out of town so you wouldn't see anything anyway.  Plus, I had a feeling they were going to stink...there are some stud atheletes on the team, but you can see at a glance that they didn't grow up playing ball and that they only pick up a glove for the season.  It is cool that for most all of these competitions, they live stream the action on line, so we could hook the computer up to the TV and watch the games on the big screen.   Was fun to see Paul do well, cringed when he popped up, and enjoyed the action best when the call to prayers was being broadcast in the background.  Luckily, one of the moms is a prolific shutterbug that likes to share.



 
They went one and four and ended up in 5th place, so my scouting prowess is intact.
 
Have been in a lot of talks/seminars/discussions about college.  Paul is a sophomore, but it is time to start thinking about those kinda things.  We are using our freebie Alaska Airlines tickets to make an east coast run between NY and DC this summer with the stated intent of touring a bunch of different schools so he can get a feel for the type of institution he wants to attend.  This is just a cover for me to visit as many baseball stadiums as I can and will be notching home games at the Padres, Yankees, Pirates and Nationals into my belt.  Don't tell Betty. 

Talking about schools here is really bizarre.  Most of the kids are Chinese, and there is this...not sure if I should call it a competition...but definitely a pressure to go to Harvard.  By Harvard, I mean Ivy League, Stanford or one of the UC schools.  Those are the desirable ones for the affluent Chinese parents, and attending anything other than those sure seems like failure.  I listen to the TAS college counselors a lot, and while they do provide a lot of decent info, it seems as if half of their time is spent trying to convince the Chinese that there is more to life than "Harvard".  A funny line by one of them at the thing I went to last week was a hypothetical conversation between two Chinese moms, and one of them asks the other where her daughter is going to school.  Mom #2 says "Reed".  Mom #1 says "Shema? (What?).  Mom # 2 repeats the name and mom # one says "Wei shema? (Why?).  Funny cause it's true.  There were some chuckles, but I truly got the impression that all the talk about going to the right school for the kid doesn't make it through in most cases as the questions that followed were all about what needs to be on their kids resume to get them accepted to Harvard.  A lot of these kids are just tortured with pressure and more often than not, are not accepted to the targeted school and must feel like failures (even when they are truly gifted and hard working individuals).  The worst are the moms, and they are always the moms but not necessarily always Chinese, that do get their kids into Harvard and them bragging about how they got into MIT AND Harvard, or how they got perfect SAT's.  I am pretty much interested in my friend's kids, or kid's friends that I've known all of their lives, and do like a good anecdote, but puffing up your brat to strangers is blowhardy and always annoying. 

One topic about the process that affects Paul's grade is that they are changing the SAT again.  Basically, they changed it many years ago from a total of 1600 to 2400, but are moving it back to 1600 and changing the format to be more in line with the ACT.  Current HS sophomores will be the first class to take the new version and everyone wants to know is if their kid should take the new SAT or the old ACT.  The prevailing thought is that the first round of SAT takers have a kind of mulligan, so if they aren't strong taking that type of test, that might be the better move.  I like the counselor that said to take one of each and then take the one the kid feels most comfortable with a second time, which seems reasonable.  The fun part of these talks is hearing about how there is a huge industry of SAT doctoring/cheating in Mainland China.  At least 3 times in the last year the SAT scores from China have been delayed or withheld.  Obviously, part of the problem is with the SAT itself, but the industry of cheating is so inherent that you wonder why the universities even bother looking or accepting these test scores.  That is until you realize that these schools make beau coup bucks accepting foreign students that can pay the full ride, and are in bed with the College Board.  I have a new found respect and admiration for the schools that do not require or deemphasise those tests.  Here's to you FairTest.org and all that you represent.

Since I am on the school topic, I just learned that there is a difference between Junior Highs and Middle Schools.  I always thought it was semantics.  Might have been better to know this before my kids were immersed or done with it, but probably would not have made any difference in the choices we made.  Anyway, this link takes a deep dive into the subject if you have interest or time.

That's pretty good...two posts in two days.  Feels good to get this stuff out of my brain.  Next time, hopefully this week, will present my long awaited personal list of 10 things the Chinese do better than anyone else.  As a reminder, here is the CNN article about 10 things Taiwan does better than anyone else that got under my skin and have been thinking about ever since.  Here is a teaser...#3 - The Chinese make the best raccoon faces.





Monday, April 20, 2015

April 20th, 2015

You must have those people in your life that, no matter how positive the subject, will always throw a wet rag on it and just bum you out.  SNL came up with Debbie Downer. for a reason. 

Hold on...we interrupt this entry as we are having a big earthquake right now...just heard something crash  and need to wait till the place stops shaking before I can go investigate...

Bunch of picture frames fell over, but no glass broke.  Was 6.3...they have a great website that posts the location and magnitude within minutes.  Am sure it feels bigger being on the 16th floor (it definately shakes longer), but that was powerful and get under the desk kinda scary. 

Back to Debbie...always try to minimize contact, but what I don't get is that they are inevitably married to really fun people who don't seem to notice how annoying their spouse is.  There has to be some syndrome that defines it, but it always perplexes. 

Finished off a couple of big projects this weekend, and Betty is out of town for a few days, so hoping to get caught up with a couple of entries this week, beginning with closing out the Thailand travelogue.

Have already mentioned Bangkok and Chiang Mai, and after those, we headed to Phuket for a few nights.  This is a destination that everyone points to as one of the best, so was excited to get there.  We got hooked up with a highly recommended tour company that helped us plan our stay, but hate to say that I was very underwhelmed.  We had two days budgeted to get on boats to see beaches and snorkel.  First bummer was that it took 1.5 hours in the car to get to the docksides, which meant early wake up calls.  Then, it was another 1.5 hours on the boat just to get to where we were going.  Back and forth, that is 6 hours of travel.  The boat rides were OK...the weather was nice and scenery was good, but once we got to the spots, seemed like the entire world was there.  And once we got in the water, thought that the quantity and variety of things to see was down right poor.  We all agreed that after the amazing waters of Palau, that we are now snorkel snobs.  When speaking to people about it afterwards, they all had this same complaint about Phuket.  So why does no one volunteer this information in advance but rather, all you hear is how beautiful it is.  My guess is that they either went 20 years ago when it was less traveled, went to some private island that only the uber rich can afford, or have never been and are just repeating lies that others have told.  Please people, share the truth about your feelings.

Look at that sea of people...took this from the ocean where there was a ton of cigarette butts floating around.

 We stopped at Monkey Beach, which we were looking forward to, but they wouldn't let us off the boat saying the monkeys bite.  That didn't stop this other group of college dudes from going on it.  They were totally wasted...the one dude climbed into that ratty cage while his buddies rolled him around.  Monkeys were far cooler.
 Our second day trip was billed as going to the "Virgin Island" where we would feel "alone".  Would have had there not been 15 other boats loaded with tourists landing there at the same time.  The nature walk was lame too...there are sea turtles and hairy crabs that have sex in trees, but we saw none of them as they are nocturnal.  Could have mentioned that in the brochure.  Did see this bitchin web with the "X" camoflauging the spider.
 It was a gorgeous beach, but it took a while before we could get the family photo without tons of people in the background.

Another day, we toured old Phuket city and popped into one of the more popular beaches.  Old Phuket had a few streets of charming 19th century Portuguese style buildings.


 

Stopped into the local "best" temple...why are temples (and churches for that matter) so busy with relics.  Have to say that of all the religions, Buddhism seems the most appealing.  All about peace and serenity, meditation and love.  That is why seeing this sign was a bit of a bummer.



We stopped at the Big Buddha...it was big.  I started singing "I like Big Buddha, and I cannot lie", and even talked Paul into posing rap style with me.
Gangsta. 

Our best day of all was the one where we did nothing and just sat poolside all day.  The hotel was on a beach, a very beautiful and quiet one, but in the water were these as yet to be identified creatures that would bite you everywhere...like you were being pinched constantly, even inside your swimsuit.  We ended up calling them nematodes.  They didn't leave any marks, but were constantly annoying, and once I mentioned the creatures that crawl up your penis and lay their eggs, going back in the water was out of the question.  And I looked at dozens of reviews about this hotel and not one mentioned the fucking nematodes.   A pretty important piece of information to leave out I think.  But having a day eating lunch, having tropical smoothies, reading a book (Keith Richards biography Life...highly recommended) and taking a nap was just lovely.

I am sure we could have done better in our tour and hotel selections, but it seemed that everywhere we went, it was piles of tourists.  I know, that's what we are too, but will be looking for something off the beaten path for next time.

To recap, Bangkok...fine if you have to go, but don't make it a destination.  Phuket...be careful and don't just do your homework, but get a money back guarantee.  Chiang Mai...go.  Go now. 

And now for the random observations about Thailand page from my notebook.  In no particular order...

- A couple of travel tips.  First from Paul...always have a key card from another hotel in your wallet.  You can use them in the slot that turns the power on in the room and you can take that room's key with you when you go out.  It sucks having no power in the room to charge your devices while you are eating dinner.  Second, invest in packets of flushable wipes and take one along.  Costco sells them by the box load.   They are better than baby wipes as they are flushable (duh), and are great for wiping off your hands after a sticky meal.  They are essential in those cases when you have to use a public bathroom, and even in the nicer hotels, they tend to use scratchy cheap toilet paper.  You never know when you are gonna eat that certain something and be stuck on the toilet, so having something soft and moist to take care of business can be a life saver.  Pretty much a must have.

- Speaking of flushable, our toilet got clogged one morning.  It was not entirely clear if it was Betty or I that did the clogging, and as I'm walking out to the lobby, I catch the end of Betty's conversation with the staff telling them about it and blaming me.  How dare she when it could have been her that did so and proceeded to point and blame her for the plugged up toilet. 

I did later confess at lunch to the family that it was indeed me that did it.  I related that once I noticed, and after waiting for things to loosen and hopefully clear up, found that it wouldn't do so.  Sometimes, they leave a plunger in the room, but not at this place.  Looking around for something to use, saw that the hotel pen was extra long, and tried chiseling  away at the mass to get it to go down.  It did clear enough so it wasn't visible, but not for it to flush normally (I did throw the pen away)  That is why Betty wasn't sure if she did it or not, but she didn't know it at the time, so that was still low for her to blame it on me to the staff.

- Thai women were cute in the normal percentage that you would say about most cultures.  Found some to be striking, most to be regular looking, and some to have really bad acne.  The guide on one of the boats was this 6 foot tall monster...cute enough, but not the 80 pound things that get associated with Thailand.
- I was constantly on the lookout for the famous Lady Boys of Thailand.  I didn't see many, or at least I didn't notice them.  From the media and what people say, I was expecting half of the dudes to have female features.  I am sure that it wouldn't be hard to find, but that was not on the family vacations itinerary.

- What I did see a few times were the solo Western guys hanging out at the coffee shops.  They all had the same uniform...flip flops, khaki cargo shorts and short sleeve white button up shirt.  I saw the same type of guy three times...sitting alone mid afternoon, talking to whomever was there, and having the same shit eating grin on their faces.  I determined these are the guys that come to Thailand on sex tours and that this is the time they had woken up for the day.  Subsequent conversations with people that go there a lot say that this is exactly what I saw. 

- What is huge in Thailand is MuayThai fighting.  Every city was advertising matches, they sold the boxing shorts at all the shops, every other billboard had schedules for upcoming matches...was just everywhere.  Didn't have the opportunity to go to one unfortunately but would plan ahead to go if we went back...looked up some highlights on line and this is crazy shit.  They have gloves, but the most effective blow is one where the crack their elbows upside the opponents heads.  The Thai people are not large in stature, but would not mess with any dude there as I figure they all practice this shit at home. 

- At one point, I got Put the Lime in the Coconut song in my head and, much to the kids annoyance, could not stop singing it for the better part of an afternoon.  I didn't know that Harry Nilsson wrote it, but do now.  Great song.

- What is it about air travel that makes me so hungry...I will eat anything and can't get enough.  And the greasier or more revolting it is, the better.  Am I alone in this? 

- They day before our day by the pool, we stopped at a large store to pick up snacks for the day called the Big C.  All 'C' puns aside, this was a huge store, kinda like a Target, only heavier on the grocery side of the business.  I was so pissed off at Taiwan afterwards.  This place had everything...prepared foods, all kinds of sausages, they even had this jar of peanut butter infused with dark chocolate.  Taiwan has nothing...NOTHING...like the Big C.  I hate that about you Taipei.

- Driving home at the end of a long day, we had the van pull over at a side of the road pineapple stand.  Perhaps the best pineapple I've ever eaten, but the true revelation was they gave you this little packet of seasoning to put on it.  It was a mixture of salt, sugar and chili peppers, and when you dip a slice of pineapple into it, pure magic.

I guess this is the time to talk about the food.  The one word review...awesome.  In general, food that you eat outside of the country of origin usually tastes different.  Makes sense as it is modified for the taste of the people eating it.  Explains why I hate the Chinese food here and make Panda Express my first stop when I get off the airplane in the States.  But the Thai food in Thailand tastes very similar to what I've eaten elsewhere.  The curries are bit thinner, and every curry tastes a bit different, but they were certainly close. 

One night, we went to this place that was popular with the locals and I pointed to the yellow curry with pancake and shrimp.  They lady looked at me and said "no, too spicy".  After ordering the other stuff, I felt a bit insulted and told her to bring it.
It was spicy, the stuff in my head that is usually gooey all liquified, and I was sweating out of my eyeballs, but it was not close to the spiciest food I've ever eaten.  Of course, felt obligated to eat the whole thing as she laid down the challenge.  More than 20 years ago, a friend of mine introduced me to a Thai joint in LA called Vim.  I had eaten Thai food before, but fell in love with it from that day forward.  They are on Sunset in East Hollywood now, but used to be on Vermont between 8th and 9th, which was the epicenter of the riots in 1992.  A couple of weeks after they ended, we had to go see if it survived.  Driving through that part of town then resembled a war zone...most of the buildings were burnt to the ground and those that weren't hadn't even had time to be boarded up.  As we got onto the block that Vim was on, all the buildings on the corners were still smoldering, but shining like a star, and open for business, was Vim.  Seems that the people in the hood loved it so much that they spared it from the fate that all the other businesses suffered.  We used to take everyone that visited town there, and we still make the annual pilgrimage there on our visits to LA (just scheduled an afternoon there on June 25th...join me won't you?).

While all of Vim's food is fantastic (our typical order includes shrimp fried rice with pineapple, coconut chicken curry, spicy green beans with pork and Thai ice teas), their crowning dish is the spicy seafood soup.  Crammed with fish, mussels, clams, crab and shrimp, it is served in the most perfect spicy broth.  I dream about it often...a couple of before and after pictures from the archive.


And yes, I do own a Vim t-shirt.  It has a couple of holes, and the collar is frayed, but I will break it out on special occasions.  Have been searching the planet for spicy Thai seafood soup that is better for decades. We had a few in Thailand, and they were very good, but just could not match the perfection that is Vim. 
We ate at a couple of fancy restaurants, which were both delicious, but felt that we had just as good stuff at the little holes in the wall, or at the places on the side of the street.  Plates of pad thai or curries for 40 baht (about $1.25) that were awesome.  I got on a kick after one of them saying that Costco should add pad thai to their menu.  I know that we like the hot dog deal, but wouldn't you kill for a plate of $1.50 pad thai from time to time.  Plus, as it is rice noodles, it is gluten free...tell me that's not a selling point to the crazed diet fanatics?   Think I ranted on this idea for 30 minutes in the car before Betty told me to shut up.

And these cheap good meals were everywhere...we did not have a bad plate of anything Thai the entire trip.  Our hotel in Phuket had this red curry with crispy duck that we shared one night.  We all loved it so much that we went back our last night and each got an order of it for ourselves.

What follows to the end of this entry is basically food porn.  You have been warned.

Probably the widest variety of stuff we saw and ate were the two nights at the Chiang Mai weekend night markets.

Quail eggs were salty and good

 Fried pumpkin served in banana leaf
 Did not try either the heart or stomach
 Insects were popular, but I've done that before and didn't need to do any stunt eating this time.

 The cicadas were huge...and everywhere.  They are horrible looking creatures and make a loud buzzing noise when they fly, sorta like a V2 rocket.  In the lobby one night, one of them flew right into my crotch and must have liked it, cause he decided to hang out.  I flicked him off roughly, and the lobby guys carefully picked him up and gently put him in the bushes.  Probably saving him for dinner later
 Love to watch craftsmen at work


 Paprika fries are even better than they sound

 These tiny quail were spinning on the rotisserie, and it was mesmerizing watching their heads snap as they made each rotation
 BBQ snails
 Salted fish
 Stopped in Phuket one day at the place where you have to point to get what you think you want.  Very good lunch and slurped up every drop.

 Outside of some temple in Bangkok was a huge tent with all kind of food vendors.   Cooked inside a piece of bamboo is sticky rice with sugar and black beans.

 And this was our first (of many) 40 baht pad Thai's.  Yes, I said two orders please.

And nobody got sick once.  Here is to you Thailand and your marvelous cuisine.  You have moved into 2nd place on my personal list of cuisines of the world (just behind Italian and right above Indian and Hungarian, which are tied for third).  Speaking of Italian food, I proposed a fusion Thai-Italian restaurant called, obviously, Thaitalian.  A subsequent web search shows there was such a place, in Pasadena of all places, but has since closed down.

Talk soon.







Monday, April 13, 2015

April 13th, 2015

Driving home from dropping Carolyn off at her Monday soccer practice, this happened.


Not sure what today is, but they have been blowing up shit since 5:30 this morning.

Have been really busy the last couple of weeks and have not had the time to devote to this space.  Things clear up after this weekend and will try to get through a lot of the Taiwan (Chinese bashing) stuff I have backed up soon.  Created this diary for a lot of reasons, but one of the main ones is for the kids to look back on these times to remember what we did and to hear what their old man had to say about them, so recapping our travels takes precedence.  Going on a Thai travelogue, so if that isn't your thing, check back next week.

Took the opportunity to spend the kids Spring break from school on a trip of Thailand. When we decided to make the move here, this was number one on my visit list, so these 10 days were highly anticipated.  3 nights Bangkok, 2 nights Chiang Mai and 5 nights Phuket.  First up...

When you read about things to do in Bangkok, the first thing they mention is the traffic, and they were not exaggerating.  Anytime we got into the car or cab, 3 miles took an hour.  Add to it that it is a sprawling city with crappy public transportation, and you have a more humid Los Angeles.   What is there to do in Bangkok?  Temples.  On our first day, we visited the two major ones.  First up was the Wat Phra Kaeo and Grand Palace.  Massive complex with really stunning buildings and statues.

 This was on a street sized mural depicting life at the temple.  Monkeys totally getting wasted and loving it.
Out of respect, visitors need to wear pants and cannot show their legs.  Carolyn wore shorts that day and they made her strap on a sarong to go inside.  She really didn't like the style of it and freaked when I wanted to take a picture.  All the more reason to take one.  She was so pissed...and I love the look of disgust Betty has on her face at the whole scene.
 We got inside and as we are regrouping, this guy is leading a tour group and screaming (in Chinese) at the top of his lungs.  Betty tells him to stop yelling and he tells her to "shut up lady".  Anyone that knows Betty in these situations will appreciate that ultimately, park security was called in to break it up.
 Very nice temple if you like those sort of things.  The old King's Palace was also on the grounds.  Also nice...most interesting piece of history was that Rama VIII (Rama = King...Ramas 1, 5 and the current # 9 are considered good) died here in 1946.  We asked the guide how he died and he said no one knows.  I looked it up, and it really is a mystery.  The exercise was a good way to learn about Thailand's role in WWII however...did you know they were both an ally of Japan while actively fighting against them?

Anyway, after the temple, we took a short tuk tuk ride over to the river.


 Much nicer way to get around town are the water taxis.  Took about a 45 minute one though the canals on our way to temple # 2 of the day.  On the way, saw a couple enormous monitor lizards (moved too fast for a photo), and the boat stopped so we could buy loaves of bread to feed the fish.  Toss in a few crumbs and these ugly as catfish swarm like a pack of starving rats.  Gross.
 Next up was Wat Arun.  The word Wat means temple by the way.  A smaller complex than the first one, but the main building was inlaid with shards of ceramics, which gave it a cool look.

 
 Day two, we took the 1.5 hour drive (which is like 5 miles in Bangkok) to the famous Damndensaduak floating market

 As advertised...you get on paddle boats and go up and down canals to buy stuff.  You can get veggies and groceries, or prepared food...one guy was stir frying up some pad thai, which we would have eaten had we not been still full from breakfast.



 Or you can do the touristy things, like get a photo from a smarmy dude with a big ass snake.
 or take your pick from all the usual touristy crap.  I bought a straw cowboy hat that looked better on Betty.
Had time for another stop on the way back to Bangkok, and in looking at the map, gave the kids a choice...another temple, or a museum.  After telling them, 'no, we can't just go back to the hotel', we chose to visit Nakhon Pathom.  This was my choice as the book said it was "in height, the tallest Buddhist stupa in the world".  No trip would be complete without seeing something that was biggest/oldest/fattest/etc.

 The grounds had the twin baby Buddha heads, which allowed us to have our daily Betty/mom's skull is so big laugh.
 Think the best part of this stop was the small food and craft market outside.  Will go into detail about the food later, but this market had Thai Elvis on the mic.
I'm sure Bangkok would be a different experience without kids, and probably weirdly different without the wife, but it certainly didn't grab me as being a place that I would rush back to.

We had a 4:30 wake-up call the next morning for the 1 hour flight to Chiang Mai.  A northern town, I had to be talked into going here as it was billed as an outdoorsman sanctuary.  I like the outdoors, but prefer urban over rural and my bad wheels bar participating in a lot of things, but I was really glad we went here as it was by far my favorite place on the trip. 

The area in the north was both an independent kingdom and was under Burmese rule until it was absorbed by Siam (later Thailand) in the early 1800's.  The area is also famously known as the Golden Triangle and was a center of opium production during the Vietnam War.  Since we arrived early in the day and before we could check in, we had some time to kill.  As asked the kids...Wat time is it?  Took a tour to Doi Purthap where the important temple Wat Phra That Lampang Luang is located in the hills above Chiang Mai.

The temple got its location as the monks decided to let their white elephant choose.  The elephant reached this place on the mountain and died, so they erected it here. 

 Elephants are the beasts of burden in these parts, but the white ones are considered sacred and are not used to work.  That is where the term white elephant gift comes from...when you own a white elephant, you have to feed and take care of it, but it is worthless to you.

The golden pagoda was truly stunning.

 Giant bells circled the complex and we were encouraged to ring them all. 

 You are supposed to circle the main golden pagoda three times while reciting certain blessings.  I chose to do them in native Thai
 Betty wanted me to get a picture of her receiving blessings from the monk, but Carolyn had to make a face.
 
On the way back to town, we stopped at a place called the 5 Hill Tribes area.  There are ethnic groups living around Chiang Mai, and they have representatives of each at this village where they can show off their traditional clothing and sell tacky souvenirs. It was hot and we were tired from the early morning call and walking around the temple, so stumbled unimpressed, but slightly sad at this human zoo, through the first 4 tribal areas.  Then we came to the Long Neck Karen (Kayan)
 
Originally Burmese, they now live as refugees in Thailand and they support themselves solely by tourism.  By that I mean, they sit around and people pay to come look at them.
 
These are the women that extend their necks by putting brass coils around them starting at age 5, and add more into adulthood.  Actually, this does not lengthen their necks, but compresses their clavicles and rib cages and gives the appearance of lengthening their necks.  After seeing them and reading about it, the compression of the ribcage makes sense as they could barely speak above a whisper.  They don't even know how this started with anthropologists theorizing that it was either to make them beautiful by exaggerating sexual dimorphism, or to make them so ugly that conquering tribes would not want to abduct them.  In my mind, the latter seemed reasonable, but from my penis' perspective, I was slightly intrigued. 



 
 
The next day was Wat free.  In the morning, we visited the Maesa elephant camp.  I am not a huge zoo guy as I feel bad for the animals, but am not a militant about it either.  I checked into the camp beforehand and they have good reputation for taking care of the animals, so off we went.  Such an amazing time.  First thing you do is go right up and have your picture taken.  The ends of those trunks are cold and wet, just like a puppy's nose.  And they are so dexterous with them...grabbing the bananas or sugar cane sticks, and taking the tips, but knowing they weren't food and handing (trunking?) them over to their handlers. 



 And yes, that one is grabbing my junk.  Posted this on Facebook with some comment about my Thai ménage e trois, and the best comment I received back was "Elephant found a peanut".

Then it was time to watch them get a bath in the river.  Not a lot of things cuter than watching baby elephants taking a bath.
 Unless it is elephants playing soccer!  After the bath, it was showtime where the elephants danced, played harmonica, twirled the hula-hoop, shot darts against some girls from the crowd, and kicked soccer balls.
 The finale was elephant painting. 
 They really painted these and were quite pretty.

 Then it was time for our elephant ride.  An hour long trek through the woods. 

Giraffes have always been my favorite animal, but after seeing and feeling how powerful, yet smart and gentle these animals were, am thinking about switching up.

The other main activity on this day was a visit to the Tiger Kingdom.  Purposely did not research this place in advance as I knew it would probably be deemed cruel...subsequent web searches find this to be the case.  Billed as a tiger refuge, the whole operation is designed so you get to be with tigers. As Carolyn was under 18, she could only go to the smallest tiger section, so I went with her.

Got to hang with 3 and 5 month old tiger cubs.  They were soft and sweet, but still had their claws and massive teeth and felt that they would easily mess you up if they were angry.  Betty and Paul (who was is not 18, but said he was for entertainment purposes) went to the biggest cat cages.


 
Like that article says...wild tigers are not selfie props.  Gorgeous creatures.

We were in Chiang Mai on Saturday and Sunday nights, and they have weekly night markets on opposite ends of town those evenings.  Our hotel was in the middle of old town, so both were about a 10 minute walk.  Absolutely fantastic...was expecting stall after stall of the same ol' tourist crap, but these were each about 1km long with tons of great food, unique handicrafts and buskers to entertain. 


I will go into the food later, possibly its own entry as it was so phenomenal, but here are some of the interesting street performers.
Blind jam band...there were two of these on opposite ends of the market.
 She was tearing it up
 Homemade RC vehicle with snack dogs
 Just wrong
 Note the hula hoop
 But this elderly couple was my favorite.  She was doing a slow but expressive dance while he was totally droning (in a good way) on whatever that instrument is...have never seen one before.


Hypnotizing.

The vibe all night at these markets, and Chiang Mai in general, was hip and relaxed.  While we ate at the markets at night, saw a bunch of trendy restaurants littered about.  A lot of Europeans were there, and I noticed a lot of groups of 20 something Western girls roaming the streets, so I figure the word is out that it is cool and very safe.  And of course, I love when we get to do the drop off laundry service in the middle of a vacation.  6 bucks and all our clothes were clean and fresh.
This got long, so will do Phuket, Thai food and overall impressions next time.