August 18th, 2018

Good morning,

Before movin' on travelogue-wise, the Taiwan Costco used to stock Quaker Oats and Cheerios but they do not anymore as the FDA here banned them for containing chemicals not considered acceptable for this country.  I know this cause I get asked about it repeatedly by the local moms who have nothing to feed their picky brats.  Read this article today from the States that reports that both of those items were found to contain a controversial herbicide.   The article says the testing was done by an environmental watchdog group and that Monsanto strenuously objects to their findings calling them extremists.  Don't know what the Taiwanese objected to in those items, but will always side with Taiwan over Monsanto.

Heat check.  It is still Les Miserable.  In the 'looking ahead' part of my weather app, it has been saying all week  that we'll have a "pleasant Saturday".  It is 7am on Saturday right now and is 94 degrees with a forecast up to 104.  Down from yesterday's 116 so guess the Frog in the pot has been reduced to simmer.

Keepin' on...last I left you had just pulled into Nashville.  As it was dinner time, didn't even check into the hotel but went directly to Prince's Hot Chicken.   Forget how Nashville hot chicken entered my consciousness but tasted it for the first time a couple years ago as a joint opened up in Seattle and we went to sample.  It was good.  Good enough to keep my interest alive and as a fan of the spicy, a main draw to visit Nashville was to go to the source.  In reading up on it before hand, came across this article from The Ringer detailing a three night descent into its heartland.  That is a beautifully written article and highly recommend it.  Since I had three nights there, planned to follow in the author's footsteps exactly.

Prince's is acknowledged as the epicenter/origin so naturally went there first.

 In a strip mall in decidedly not the best part of town, the line was long and the people watching excellent.  Took at least an hour to get the goods.  The place was small and since I was alone, didn't want to take up one of the few seats inside, so ate it on  the trunk of the car.

So great.  Greasy, juicy and hot.  I got the XHot and it was just right.  Also asked for a piece of the XXXHot to see what that was all about and while it was good too, and exquisitely painful, felt that it was a bit too much and took away from the taste of the chicken.  The sides in the south do vary, but baked beans and mac-n-cheese are staples on all menus.  Quickly stopped getting the Mac cause it didn't vary much and didn't need the extra carbs especially as this was gonna be a long stretch of eating unhealthy fare, but did not skip the beans once.  I could write a few pages detailing all the ones I ate but know that'd get boring.  Suffice it to say that they all had their charms and as a massive fan of the genre, was always satisfied.

Quick side note, read an article yesterday that said that people should eat more carbs, up to 50% of their caloric intake, as they get past middle age.  As a carb lover, didn't investigate any further and have decided to base my diet solely on this click bait.

Keeping on the chicken topic, next night went to the other pillar of Hot Chicken...Hattie B's.

Hattie B's was downtown in a much trendier area and near Vanderbilt.  The line and such also took an hour and the clientele decidedly more white meat than dark

Also delicious and was hard to choose between the two.  I liked the vibe at Prince's more and the beans better for sure.  In Atlanta, we drove past a Hattie B's that was going to open in a couple months so they are branching out, which made me appreciate Prince's more.  Also, and perhaps most importantly, when I saw Yo La Tengo in Portland, my friend made me go up and say hello to Ira.  Will detail that experience later but I know that they recorded several albums in Nashville and have not one, but two songs with Hot Chicken in the title, so asked him which establishment they preferred.  Without hesitation he said Prince's and related a story about getting hung up at TSA a couple of months earlier as they took some home with them after their show there in May.  If it is good enough for my beloveds...

My intention was go to the third place on the list the last night, but after two days eating the stuff, and having urine that was coming out both hot and tangy, bypassed that for something that was majority green.

I enjoyed Nashville a lot.  One day I spent doing a couple laps on the Hop On/Off Bus.  Loved the layout of the town, with distinct neighborhoods that were all well kept and interesting.

Seems I didn't take many pictures.  Got off the bus to go look at the bathroom in the historic Hermitage hotel.  They said the toilet was an art deco masterpiece and being a fan of that, and having to go potty, checked it out.  Interesting color scheme.  I will say that what I left behind was a masterpiece

 For reasons I never understood, the town's forefathers had a thing for Greek architecture down to having an exact replica of the Parthenon

 I was on and off a bunch of buses and all of the drivers felt compelled to point out the Batman building.

Went by the location of Dutchman's Curve and learned about the train crash that killed over 100 people in 1918.  An interesting story.

Got off at Vanderbilt to take a peek.  A good buddy of mine went there, and the daughter of some friends here attends there now.  I didn't take any snaps and while the place was pretty, it felt new and didn't get a feeling of charm that I was expecting.  What was funny was that Betty had dinner with the girl's dad and her in Taipei that week and it was reported by Betty that the girl said matter of factly that everyone in college these days is bi-sexual.  Say what?  We asked the Boy on his thoughts and that has not been his experience, but I couldn't help but look inquisitively at the coeds as I walked around.

Went through a circle near Music Row and our attention was directed to a statue called Musica.  You can read about it here, but it is still controversial as that the figures are all naked.  Southern sensibilities were offended.  It wasn't that day, but apparently some locals come and put clothes on the figures regularly.

Went up and down Music Row  a few times.  It is a couple of one way streets a mile or so long, and if you didn't know it would think they were residential streets, but in many (most) of the buildings are recording studios.  Feels like almost everyone has recoded there at some point, and certainly all country performers.  You name it and they were there.  Elvis? Yep.  Jimi?  Indeed.  It was funny cause whenever the driver would point out a particularly noteworthy studio or location, they would all say three people did something there.  Not only that, but the people were from three different eras.  Roy Orbison, Reba McEntyre and Blake Shelton.  Dinah Shore, Garth Brooks and Zak Brown.  It became comical to me and I always knew all the names except for the current star.  Am I just an old timer or were the stars/music better back in the day?  It was impressive but as not a huge country fan, I was not nearly as excited as the other folks on the bus that were losing their minds when they saw Luke Bryan's studio.  Never heard of him but he apparently sells out stadiums.  Please tell me if you enjoy his ditty Sunrise, Sunburn, Sunset...

I had to stick a Q-tip in my ear to make the ringing stop, but that's me.

One of the drivers pointed out the studio that Taylor Swift uses and made a snide comment about her covering Earth Wind and Fire's September.  I could not let that go and we got into a discussion that while it wasn't either of our favorite version of it, the controversy surrounding it was misplaced and was certainly not the egregious act of cultural appropriation that was implied.  This went on for a few stops.

Mentioned above that my beloved Yo La Tengo recorded several albums in Nashville and remembered that as I was on the bus.  Looked it up and found that their studio Alex The Great was on the outskirts of town.  Tried to call to get a tour but there was no answer so mapped it for a drive by once I was done with the Hop On Bus..  Located near the train tracks in an industrial section, didn't get any further than the front "gate".  Still, a part of the pilgrimage and many bands I enjoy have laid down some wax there.  I am a weirdo.

My last day in town I decided to stroll around the downtown core.  A long strip of bars that all had bands playing all day and night.  None of them were my thing and getting loaded listening to music I'm not into did not appeal.  Plus it felt over the top touristy.  What I wasn't expecting was the volume of bachelorette parties going on.  Dozens of these booze pedal bars or trucks with piles of blonde chicks getting their groove on.  For example.

One of those vehicles smelled really bad.  And the other was a (white) trash truck.

Against the guides recommendation, did not go into the Country Music Hall of Fame cause why would I, but the layout downtown was very well done and can see the appeal if that was your thing.  I did take the time to take a tour of the Ryman Auditorium.

A musical shrine.  More of a temple as it was built as a church originally.

 So many stories were shared about its history and came away mad at myself for not going to see a show there.  The only thing playing was a show by Stephen Stills and Judy Collins the night I came in and stupidly passed cause I'm an idiot.  I like Stephen's guitar playing and he did write Suite Judy Blue Eyes in Ms Collins' honor (jokingly said they retitled it now Suite Judy Cataracts...the tour guide was not amused).  Note to self...always go see your idols.

I liked Nashville a lot and felt it was very livable.  Clean, easy to move around, interesting food, and a rich history.  I think it was the type of music they lean on there that left the biggest impression on me not wanting to spend any more time there.  I wanted to make Memphis a stop, with it being a mecca of my preferred Soul music and all, but it was just too far away.  Maybe one day.

What wasn't too far away, and was on the way to my ultimate destination was Louisville, KY.  The attraction there was Churchill Downs.  Horse racing is hardwired for me as I grew up within earshot of Santa Anita and my folks taking me there are some of my earliest and fondest memories.  Checking out the place was a no brainier.  I signed up for the tour and they did a lovely job.  The museum had a ton of great stuff and found the words from THE jockey when I was growing up to be insightful.  Works on people and horses equally

The Derby was a few weeks beforehand and the place was all gussied up.  Dude in the foreground had a nice stogie

 They took us to the infield and we stopped to watch the start of the second race...a mile on the turf so we got to be close to the starting gate

 And when they came around the final turn.  Damn great shot for a cell phone.

 Iconic twin spires.

 And my favorite horse of all time.

Really beautiful place.  Had my usual shitty luck and didn't cash a ticket.  Obviously I am biased, but give me Santa Anita any day.  The Sierra Madre Mountains framing the view and the immaculately maintained art deco style sends me back in time.  And was Churchill Downs ever an internment camp?

Did a drive around Louisville and to say it felt depressed would be an understatement.  I did have some damn fine ribs that night though.

Have to say that traveling solo is not my preferred way to go.  Will read articles about the merits of doing it, but not being able to share stuff in real time is kind of a bummer.  No one gets to laugh/gringe at my gags.

Quick side note.  I will click on every article with the headline that says "what Europeans find odd about 'Merica" and in every single one of them our penchant for putting ice in water is always criticized.  To those foreigners I say "Screw you".  We like it.  I like it.  Why do you give a crap?  Do I care that you don't shave your armpits or use deodorant?

Plan for the next day was to drive to Cincinnati.  Why Cincinnati?  Baseball game of course.  Looking at the map, there were a few points of interest along the way I had considered and was pretty sure it was gonna be to the area where the Hatfields and McCoys got it on.  After Churchill Downs made a change of plans and booked a visit to Claiborne Farm.  

Claiborne Farm is a thoroughbred horse breeding operation in Paris, KY and is arguably the most successful.  6 Triple Crown Winners were conceived there including the greatest of all time...Secretariat.  He then retired there to make babies and died there in 1989.

His whole body is there, which we were told was unusual as they typically bury only the head, heart and hooves as it represents the mind, body and soul of the great beasts.

First stop on the tour was the shed where all the sexy stuff happens.  This is the only barn where the horses mate.  Claiborne has 17 stallions on site and owners of lady horses pay to bring them there to breed with their boys.  Prices vary from $12K to $250K and the owners only pay the fee upon live birth.

The prices vary based on the previous offsprings performance, so when a stallion starts breeding, it is $12K, but if those kids go on to find success at the track, the rates go up.  They get $250K for a horse called Warcraft, which is currently the second highest stud fee in the world.

The males are allowed to breed with 130 different females in a 4 month season and while Claiborne doesn't do this, many owners ship their stallions to South America so they can breed with 130 more during their season.   Claiborne does not ship to South America as the mating process is said to be hard on the male horses hips.  Tell me about it.

 Artificial insemination is strictly forbidden.  On average, it takes 2.3 "jumps" to impregnate a filly and once the average for a horse gets too high, they are put out to pasture to spend the rest of their days enjoying the lovely countryside.

 And lovely does not do it justice.  The country is all rolling hills with lush grass and white fences.  I cannot do it justice with words or pictures.  Claiborne itself is 3000 acres with 90 miles of fences, have 500 ponies on site that are cared for by 90 employees.  There are internships if you have kids and with this being not only a hands on farming business, it is also big business as the prices above can attest.

 THe horses all have their own personalities too.  Some are mean and some are lovers.  This is the big breeder Warcraft and we were all allowed to scratch his neck, feed him a peppermint and give him a hug.  Not going to put a price tag on hugging my wife cause she is priceless, but Warcraft is worth $84 million bucks.  I will offer my wife a peppermint from time to time.

 And some are downright micheivous.

One of the most interesting and beautiful places I've ever been and was a trip highlight.

On the way to Cincinnati I stopped for gas and a Goodwill was next door.  I like to pop into them whenever possible as there are often times region specific t-shirts to grab for a couple bucks.  Random KY Goodwill was no exception as I found a really nice shirt from some local cave.  Went to give the cletrt my $2.99 and she asked if I was a veteran and after I said I was not, asked if I was over 50.  Told her I was indeed and received a 10% discount.  Gimme my 30 cent discount young lady.  I am gonna milk this discount thing for all its worth.

I had to spend two nights in Cincinnati as there was no game the first night, so tooled around town in the afternoon.  

I loved WKRP in Cincinnati as a youth.  "Maybe you and me were never meant to be, but baby think of me once in a while."   Didn't spend too much time in town and don't have a ton to say other than it seemed like most of these rusty belted places.  Some great architecture and areas with a tinge of sadness that it has fallen into disrepair.  And when you look at a Things To Do page online and escape rooms are in the top 5, you know times are tough.  

Next day was the Reds game, but with a 7:05 start, had the day to kill.  Dayton is a little over an hour away and heard that a new museum dedicated to Funk Music had opened up recently.  Got there early so checked out the town.  Wide streets downtown with decaying but quaint neghborhoods around it.  Felt like it had fallen on hard times as there was a lot of homeless in the downtown area.  

The Funk Hall of Fame isn't like Cleveland's RnR HoF but is the love project of a guy who lives Funk.  Many Funk greats, highlighted by the Ohio Players. and more lesser lights came from Dayton.  Entrance is still by appointment only and for a 10 dollar donation, the dude (David Welch, ask for him by name) takes you on a tour of his artifacts.  No photos allowed, but saw a lot of sequined costumes and musical equipment.  Super nice fella and well worth the trip.

I do want the Funk.

Great America BallPark in Cincinnati is what the one in Atlanta is not.  Located downtown within walking distance of the core, on the river near the football stadium and designed so that it links the water to city in an organic way but with plenty of parking.  

While the Reds, much like the city itself, has fallen on hard times, their fans are those blue collar types that make me feel good to be alive.  They do have that defensiveness of their own despite knowing that they are shit that I understand but do not condone.

 Bought the cheapo t-shirt outside that reads "I'm with Pete...and give me 200 bucks on the Reds".  Asked the dude if this was pro or con Pete Rose and he only grunted.

 All of these new stadiums are well designed and similar with regards to sightlines and concourses.  What seperates them from an aesthetic standpoint are location, views and concessions and as I have said and you can see, this one meets the first two criteria with aplomb

But the food?  Ouch.  Not a ton of diversity with the same two outlets dominating the landscape.  Something called Porkopolis.  Dogs AND sausage?  We have both kinds...country AND western.

And Skyline chili.

 You know this abomination, yes?  Chocolate flavored Greek chili that tastes like the underside of a toilet bowl.  A buddy of mine here lived in Cincinnati for a while and he always feels the need to make it and bring to pot lucks.  Serves it with spaghetti.  I rip him mercilessly for it but felt I owed it to him and myself to eat it in its hometown.  Got the chili dog

 No amount of bun, pork or cheese can hide that taste.  Was talking to my buddy yesterday and recounted my experience and he said that people like it.  It is not good and  said that only people that have had it rammed down their throats for years and have developed a taste for it would say that.  "Much like people eat Vegemite voluntarily".  That is the PC version of what I meant to say and as this is a dude rephrased it and sad that "people also give rim-jobs voluntarily".

The next couple of days were devoted to West Virginia.  Wanted to see for myself what all the hubbub was about.  Did not take a ton of photos (included every one below) for some reason.

WVA gets press mainly (exclusively) for how effed up it is.  Black lung, overdoses...that's about it.  Tried to get as decent a cross section as I could with Wheeling and Morgantown the big cities, but traveled through it slowly and used only the by-ways and would stop for a wizz or coffee in the little places often.  

Wheeling has a special place in Gomez lore as it was the destination the night/early morning when we wrecked my friend's car during the college years, and our friend from there was in nearby Pittsburg the day the keys went in the sewer.  I had a real fear the day I was passing through that another calamity would strike cause that shit comes in threes.

 It didn't.  Wheeling is an amazing looking town with the core all brick and could be a movie location for one set in the 1800's.  The residential section was neat lawns and tractor stores.

Morgantown, home of WV University was classic college town, but that college is so massive they have a monorail to transport students.  You would need to be part mountain goat to walk it.  Not much to say about that city other than they have a statue of Don Knotts

Rural WVA was damn good looking.  A long history, starting with the fact that there is a West Virginia as they split from Virginia in opposition to the South's secession in 1861.

I would put the term Mountaineers in quotation marks as they were more rolling hills rather than mountains, but stunning nonetheless.

Was expecting to see open pit coal mines and shuttered hospitals everywhere and while I am sure they exist, managed to not see much of that.  The towns and such were old, and looked like they could use a coat of paint or some new porches, but it appeared normal.  Until you looked closely at the people.  "Worn" was a word I kept coming back to.  Their attire was understandably rural but it was the teeth that stood out.  When they would smile, it was a never ending display of Summerteeth.  Some are here, some are there...

Did some half assed internet research and WVA is ranked last in the nation in dental health and they even refer to something called Mountain Dew mouth.  65% of their kids suffer from tooth decay and a lack of health insurance and medical professionals are killing them off.  Makes sense, but saw many studies that show that poor dental health is the entry point for diseases all throughout the body.

Started looking for the quintessential WVA food and determined it was a thing called a pepperoni roll.  As the title suggests, it is pepperoni wrapped up in dough.  Not flaky buttery dough, just dough.  About the only thriving industry I saw were billboards touting God,  Excuse me, Jesus.

Doesn't feel like I hit the right spots for this aging hipster to see the underbelly of America.  Surprised they don't offer tours and stage an old coal mine with people covered in soot and a town where everyone has the same name (and DNA).  You know what a West Virginia girl says after sex?  Get off me daddy, you're crushing my cigarettes.

To me, I thought it was really pretty.  Saw a lot of recreational areas with hiking and boating and see a ton of potential.  They are in a slump but I bet that it'll be a destination during my kids lifetimes.

DC was the destination and once you finish the long descent out of the WVA mountains, you hit the plains of western Maryland.  As soon as I hit the freeway, saw the first 7-11 since I arrived in Atlanta.  Know that is an odd marker, but 7E's have become a touchstone since living in TW and seeing one made me feel like I was back with my people again.

Almost through part 1 of 5 of summer.  As it says on Krusty the Clown's tombstone...'See ya real soon kids'.